Adventures in Bolivia

As a graduate student, I finally had the opportunity to work on a project in southern Bolivia. Although I had spent previous summers camping alone while conducting fieldwork in remote areas, this was to be my first journey overseas, to a country known variously for coca growing, revolution, and the final resting place of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

La Paz is nestled in a series of steep valleys that are eroded in a jagged, blasted moonscape of sun-baked volcanic rock. One of the city parks is called "Valle de la Lunas" or Valley of the Moon. The city has sprawled up the valley slopes onto the Altiplano, or high desert. As my taxi drove from the airport over the lip of the high desert, the city was spread out below, partially obscured through a haze of heavy smog. After finding the company office, a driver took me to a hotel in the old part of the city, popular with young, dominantly British and Spanish backpackers. Left to my own devices for several days, I taught myself the phrases and words to order breakfast and dinner, and wandered through the open-air market to practice my nascent Spanish skills on vendors of flashlights, jeans, and trilobite fossils. I found Bolivians to be the friendliest of people, who seemed to delight in talking to a Norteamericano. At first, I felt no ill effects from climbing the steep streets in what has been described as the World's highest-altitude capitol city. After several days, altitude sickness left me with a feeling of exhaustion and constant headache in spite of six weeks of hiking in the Colorado Rockies.

At last I was to depart for the exploration camp in southern Bolivia, as the pickup laden with fuel drums and survey stakes arrived to collect me. My driver, Nicco, guided the pickup through the bustling, chaotic streets of La Paz and we rolled south on a two-lane, newly paved highway toward Oruro, a hot, dusty, windblown town that represents the end of pavement. There, the sun-baked main street was covered in a one-inch layer of dust that was excited into whirling vortexes as lines of Volvo flatbed trucks trundled through. Gray, windblown silt covered the cobblestone street, sidewalks, building facades, and withered decorative trees to produce a desolate dreamscape devoid of color. We rolled through a featureless landscape beneath an endless expanse of blue sky and mercilessly bright sun. As the daylight began to wane, the highway degenerated into a pair of deep ruts across the featureless desert, passing desolate adobe towns. We forded streams of frigid melt water from the Cordillera Oriental, often breaking a thin film of ice. Night fell and still we rolled south, now across the Salar de Uyuni salt flat. Despite the heater in the Mazda 4x4, the cold crept in, and in the ghostly play of the headlights, the shimmering white deposits of salt might have been snow drifts. Time dragged, with only the constant rumble of the tires on hardpan marking a cadence in the darkness that surrounded the small, heated compartment of the pickup. At last we reached a town, a sign of human habitation in what seemed increasingly like a harsh wilderness. Not a single light bulb was evident as we thumped slowly over the cobbled streets. Dark shapes shuffled along the sidewalks, and the shadows of adobe buildings rose and fell, capering in the glare of the headlights. Stars, bright and brilliant as diamonds, but equally as cold, seemed to provide the only other light. Amidst this scene of harsh desolation, the corpses of dogs littered the streets, frozen stiff where they had ultimately succumbed to the uncaring elements.

After another three hours of crawling through the frigid darkness, the road seemed nothing more than a gully, with sagebrush whipping the sides of the truck. Almost imperceptibly, we left the desert and a sheer rock wall suddenly loomed out of the darkness. The truck climbed the rapidly rising road, which clung to the side of the cliff, and the engine whined in protest at the exertion caused by the steep grade and thin air. In the days to come, my own heart and lungs would register a similar wheezing protest. We passed through a looming cleft in the rock wall, beneath towering ramparts massed in the impenetrable gloom. Suddenly, the truck stopped and we had arrived. Arrived where? In the dim light, I could barely discern an adobe wall. There were no lights, no sound of people or animals, and no hum of machines that we have come to expect virtually everywhere in North America. In the dead quiet, pitch black surroundings, I might have been standing in a cavern instead of in front of the quadrille where I would live for the next four months. I had arrived in Bolivia.

About The Author
I am a geologist, and have visited several countries in Latin America and Europe, and have worked on various civil engineering and mining related issues throughout the U.S. and other places. I have written journal articles from a scientific viewpoint, but thought it would be fun to write about some of my travel experiences on a more informal level. I have other photos and geology related items at http://sedward.home.netcom.com/petrography.html

Living and Retiring in Bolivia

A beautiful and inexpensive place without a tourist in sight. Sound like a dream? It's not. This slice of paradise does exist. Nestled high in the Andes Mountains of South America, Bolivia is a little-known retreat exotically spiced with a unique Latin and Native American flavor. Bolivia has a lot to offer…a very low cost of living, unspoiled natural environment, friendly people and a range of climates to suit virtually every taste.

Property prices are among the lowest in Latin America and it has the potential to become the world's next great expatriate haven. Bolivia has long been a favorite destination of adventure travelers, yet few mainstream American and European tourists make it to this secretive outpost. Why? Well, perhaps it's because Bolivia isn't a destination you stumble across by accident. Shrouded by great mountain ranges, it lies hidden between Brazil, Chile, Argentina, Peru and Paraguay.

The country's most famous visitors were Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, the American outlaws who fled to South America in the early 1900s - they are said to have had their last stand with the Bolivian army and are buried here. As recent as the 1980s, wise old men in towns throughout the Bolivian highlands could be heard gossiping about the fate of two of America's most notorious outlaws. In Bolivia, myths come thick and fast, and one legend has it that the Incas have an underground network of secret passageways on an island located in Lake Titicaca, which is praised by visitors as being one of the deepest blue and most beautiful bodies of water in the world.

Leave your worries at home

Bolivia is one of those countries that seduce you through sheer personality. The colorful bustle of its markets and street vendors, the liveliness of its nightlife, and the charm and friendliness of its people, make it one of the most livable places in Latin America. Bolivia has a bit of something for everyone: charming old-world colonial towns with great restaurants, museums, and nightlife, as well as slow-paced cozy developments in rural areas near indigenous villages, where hunting, gathering and fishing are a way of life.

The climate is another plus. Temperatures in Bolivia range from the mid 60s to the low 80s, with the average being in the mid 70s. Even the hottest days are always tempered by cooling breezes.

Bolivia is a republic with a presidential system of government. Its fully democratic, American style system retains the respect of individual rights and freedoms.

Bolivia enjoys a remarkably low crime rate, with violent crime being virtually unknown and theft not commonplace.

Americans, Canadians, Australians and most Europeans don't need a visa to spend up to 90 days as a tourist in Bolivia and nonresidents may buy property. Live the good life on less than $9,000 a year. Besides the fact that there's no such thing as a rat race in Bolivia, its biggest asset is its cost of living. You can stay in a clean, friendly hotel in the city center for $8 a night (or US$125 per month) where every meal costs less than $3. Groceries are up to 70% cheaper than in the United States or Europe. A routine trip to a good English-speaking doctor will set you back no more than $20. You can take in an American movie for only $2 or get a taxi across town for as little as 80 cents. And you're certainly not going to have high utility bills: Electricity and heating costs average $15 a month.

Cheap Real Estate

To give you an example of the costs, here are some properties on offer right now:

A 4-bedroom, 2-bathroom, 2500-square-foot home in an affluent neighborhood with a large garden, a garage, an alarm system, and every modern convenience, for $75,000.

A 2-bedroom, 1-bathroom, 800-square-foot apartment with a dining room, a kitchen, central heating, a balcony, and parking, costs $15,000.

Rentals are downright cheap by First World standards. Apartments begin at around $75 per month for something small, with houses starting at the $200 mark.

You could certainly rent a nice two-bedroom apartment in one of the best parts of town for $175 to $350 a month. And you can lease a luxury three-bedroom suburban home would rent for between $275 and $400 per month; homes with private swimming pools start at around $500 monthly.

Recently, I helped a client find a lot to build on for less than $5000, with good shopping, a lake and the airport all in walking distance.

These deals and many more make little-known Bolivia worth investigating.

About The Author
Shannon Roxborough is an international lifestyle expert with close to 20 years experience. He has helped hundreds of clients with overseas living, retirement and travel matters. Visit his website at: www.TheGlobalLife.net